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![]() ![]() A Visit to Athens and the Greek Isles - Part 3 |
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Day 13, 14 (June 2, 3) - Sailing to Ios (Pop. 1,654)
Shortly after, about 10:00 we arrived at a small bay (Manganari) for a swim
stop. As we arrived, a shepherd brought about 30 or 40 goats down to the water.
Each goat must have had a bell, because there was a cacophony of bells clanging.
We were anchored quite a way out in the bay and it looked like a nice
swimming beach. So, the captain broke out the Zodiac and ferried the swimmers
to the shore. After ferrying those who wished to swim, I asked the captain if I could
go for a ride with him. He said "Sure", and we went for a ride. We ended up at a small
fishing boat anchored nearby in the bay. After some discussion, one of the fishermen
retrieved 3 large lobster and a crab from the hold. That was to become our lunch later.
We were back on the ship at 6:00 for another reading of the
Odyssey. Oh, I should mention that Ios is the island where Homer is
purportedly buried. We saw a statue of him earlier in the town. I think that it
was after the reading that Laura announced the fact that there would be high winds
and rough seas tomorrow, so we would not chance another seasick day but
instead spend a whole extra day on Ios. After the reading Marj and I headed up
through the town intending to visit the Chora above. However, we inadvertently
took the long route, and it was starting to get dark before we reached "the
Village". So we returned to the ship, leaving our Chora visit for tomorrow.
Dinner was on our own, so we popped into the local grocery store
and bought some youghurt and chocolate milk. We joined Fred and Robin
on the upper deck for dinner - we with our yoghurt and they with their taramosalada .
And, of course, beer! Then to bed.
Marj and I headed out for another walk around the town. This time we
decided to take the city bus up to "the Village", so we would be sure to
get to the right place. The bus came every half hour, so we didn't have to
wait long. It went up far past where we had walked to the previous evening.
After about 10 minutes we arrived at the Chora and got off the bus.
Across the street was a beautiful whitewashed cathedral (Agia Aekaterini -
St. Catherine). We walked over to the church, took some pictures, and then
headed up village on the hillside behind the church. The narrow streets were
twisty, with occasional views of the ocean. There were loads of shops,
restaurants, bars and hotels. A strange thing was that there were several
Irish bars and restaurants - in Greece? What a beautiful town!
It was a beautiful day, so we walked back to the ship. There was a special footpath
that shortcutted the switchback road and it didn't take us all that
long. There was a small grocery store across from the ship so we decided to
supplement our usual breakfast fare with yoghurt and chocolate milk. Monica
allowed us to store the food in her fridge. It worked out well and relieved the
monotony of the same old breakfast every day.
We spent the remainder of the afternoon reading on the rear deck.
At 7:00 John did another reading from the Odyssey. Dinner was at
8:00 . The entree was mousakka. Marj didn't mind at all having it twice in
one day, and claimed it was even better on the ship. After dinner we did another walk
along the marina checking out the beautiful yachts and a large
pirate ship. Then to bed.
Day 15 (June 4) - Sailing to Naxos (Pop. 20,000)
At about 11:00 we reached Naxos and pulled into a small bay (Kastraki)
for a swim stop. We stayed in the bay for about an hour, then pulled up anchor
and headed to the main town - Naxos Town. It was about a two hour sail, so
we had lunch onboard during the transit (1:00). We finally arrived in Naxos Town
about 2:00. It was one of the largest towns we had visited on the islands,
with a population of around 15,000 people. The town was mostly along the waterfront,
with no Chora on the hillside above. In the middle of the town was a large
Venetian fortress, part of the Kastro built in 1207. However, we didn't have
time to explore the town at this point, as the bus was there for our trip around
the island.
Chalki was an interesting town - a mix of newer homes and buildings and
some ancient decrepit buildings. At one time it was the capital of Naxos.
We walked to the old Byzantine Fragopoulis
tower, which is now a hotel or hostel. Then we walked along a path through an
olive orchard to a very old church. I think it's called Panagia Protothroni.
Unfortunately it wasn't open. Then we retraced our steps into the town and
headed to the Kitron "Vallindras", a local distillery. Kitron is a kind of lemon
liquor, except the fruit is much larger, like an orange, and it is made from the leaves,
keeping much more flavour than the fruit. The distillery was opened in 1896.
We sampled a number of different kitron drinks. Too strong for me!
There was still some evening daylight so we walked along the dock, over a
causeway and onto the little islet of Palatia. On top of a small hill is the Portara
gateway to the unfinished Temple of Apollo. A pathway encircles the site, so
you can view it from all sides. It was a great overlook of the ocean and a Blue
Star ferry was just coming into the dock. Walking back to the ship we stopped
at a statue (an obelisk, actually) commemorating Athina.
Back on board we taught Fred and Robin the dice game and played a few
rounds. I think they enjoyed it. It was a great day. Time for bed.
Day 16 (June 5) - Sailing to Paros (Pop. 10,300)
We quickly picked out a nearby restaurant and Marj, Paul and I ordered
a couple of pizzas (and beer). Greek restaurants are annoyingly slow, but we
managed to finish the pizza and pay our bill in time to catch the bus.
We walked as a group to visit the Ekatontapyliani (Church of 100 Doors).
We were the only people there so it was peaceful to walk through the church.
The church is the oldest church in Greece in continuous use and is a major
Byzantine monument. Its official name is the Dormition of the Virgin. It consists of
3 interlocking builds and is purported to have 99 windows and doors. According
to legend, when the 100th door is found, Constantinople will return to the Greeks.
The inside of the church was beautiful with many chandeliers, carvings and
paintings. I really enjoyed visiting this church.
We returned to the bus a bit early, so watched the high speed ferry
dock and unload its passengers. Finally we were all back on the bus and off
through the mountains into the heart of the island. We passed by several
small villages perched on the mountain side. Eventually we came to the village
of Lefkes. The bus stopped here and let us out to explore the village.
It was an exquisite little village. The streets were narrow and twisty opening
up onto small gardens or plazas. One could quite easily get lost here! We
wandered around for a while and then ended up at an outdoor
restaurant / bar where a lot of the group had gathered. Most were having
drinks, but we decided to wait until we got back to the ship. Then we returned to
where we had been dropped us off to reboard the bus.
We reboarded the ship at 7:00 for another reading from the Odyssey.
I think that Odysseus had returned home at this point and was hiding out
with his shepherd. Dinner was on the ship at 8:00. After dinner we
did another walk along the marina. It was a beautiful evening. Then
it was back on board and to bed.
Day 17 (June 6) - Sailing to Delos, Mykonos (Pop. 4,500)
We arrived at Delos about 9:30. It was still quite cool and cloudy. We anchored
in the bay and needed the zodiac to reach the dock. I went with the first
group of 4 or 5 passengers. This was a mistake. The bottom of the zodiac
was ankle deep with water, so our group had the honour of soaking it up
with our socks and runners. Subsequent groups had no water problem thanks to us.
Then the captain missed the first (easily accessible) set of steps on the
dock and instead took us to another area behind a docked yacht where we had
to duck under ropes or risk decapitation.
We hiked back to the dock and waited for the zodiac to shuttle us back to the ship.
It was quite warm by now. We were all back on the ship by 1:00. It was time to
sail to Mykonos. Along the way we stopped at a small bay (Agios Ioannis) for a swim.
At 2:00 lunch was served as we floated in the bay. After lunch we set sail for
Mykonos Town.
Paul was in our first shuttle group, so he, Marj and I wandered together
through the town. We headed into the narrow streets dodging the motorcycles.
This was certainly the busiest island town that we visited so far. Lot's of
people everywhere. It was very hot and we came upon a store advertising
smoothies. We each ordered one (mine was strawberry and banana), but were
disappointed. The ingredients were not very cold, and a couple of ice cubes
had been tossed in later, rather than being blended with the drink. So far,
Aigina was winning the smoothie contest by a mile.
We took one little alley that led to an ocean view. When we
got to the end of the alley, the we had a wonderful view of the Kato Myloi
area with the 5 windmills. On the rocks, just in from of us, 3 large white
pelicans were lying in the sun. This was the area called "Little Venice". The
buildings were flush with the ocean.
We eventually came upon a large plaka with a number of restaurants. We
picked one and had dinner there. As we were eating, a huge pelican came
walking through the restaurant. One of the waiters retreived a large fish from
the kitchen and tossed it down the grateful beak. Young children were running
around the pelican having a great time. Then suddenly there were two
pelicans. I guess the free handouts atrracted them. After eating we slowly wandered
back along the docks to the place where our captain had agreed to pick us up.
The captain had planned on doing hourly pickups, but, of course, everyone decided to
come back at about the same time. Anyway, we got in on the 9:30 pickup
and were back on the ship by 10:00. It was a great day. time for bed.
Day 18 (June 7) - Sailing to Tinos (Pop. 9,000), Syros (Pop. 23,000)
We headed off onto the island. Tinos town was a typical island village.
The main street followed the coast line with docks and yachts on one side and
commercial buildings on the other side. A number of restaurants had tables
outdoors along the sidewalk. From there, the town was built up the hill. Going
deeper into the town (ie. up), the streets became narrower, eventually pedestrian
only. Everywhere were restaurants, bars and souvenir shops.
We followed a small crowd walking up the street and even passed
several pilgrims crawling along. The candles the people were carrying were
huge - about 5 to 6 feet long. At the top of the hill was a larger than life size statue
of a crawling woman. The religious shops were packed with pictures, carvings,
etc. as well as embossed metal tags featuring body parts such as arms and legs.
I think these were to specify which parts of the body needed healing.
I walked around the outside cloisters exploring the immense church.
There were outbuildings all around. Finally Marj exited from the church and
we headed back down to the lower town, taking a narrow alleyway lined with
religious shops. I noticed that these shops, especially those further from the
church, were hedging their bets and selling regular Greek Isles souvenirs to
those not interested in regilious stuff.
We anchored at the north end of Syros for a swim stop at a small bay
(called Sykamia?). After the swim we continued on to Ermoupoli, the main
city on the island. We arrived about 3:00. Ermoupoli was unlike any
of the other towns we had been to. Syros is the administrative center
of the Cycladic Islands (sort of like a provincial capital) and is the most
populous island of the group. The town featured many 3 or 4 story buildings,
unusual for island architecture. There were few souvenir shops and most
buildings were commercial, administrative or hotels, sort of like a large
city's downtown area. Most of the streets were autombile size with some
sporadic traffic. We headed into the town and came upon a huge public
square in front the the town hall. Continuing up the hillside, we came to a
huge church. Past the church was a lookout over a bay and a public beach.
Even this far into the town, we didn't see anything resembling the narrow
alleys and small shops of the other islands.
I returned to the ship earlier than Marj, as I had to use the bathroom and
couldn't find any public toilets on our walk. I couldn't find Marj after that so we
spent the rest of our free time each taking pictures in different parts of the
town. We met back at the ship just before 6:00. Marj had done her usual
grocery store visit to pick up some milk and yoghurt. It was fun shopping
in the Greek stores as all the labels were in Greek. You weren't sure if
you were buying yoghurt, cottage cheese or margerine! And flavourings
were fun to guess too.
Dinner call came at 8:00. We had our present exchange and "farewell
dinner" tonight, because tomorrow night we would be packing and getting
ready for our 3:00 AM departure to the airport. After dinner we jumped ship
again and wandered along the docks. There's nothing nicer than walking
by rows of yachts and fishing boats on a warm evening. It's heaven! Then
to bed.
Day 19 (June 8) - Sailing to Kea (Pop. 1,600), Lavrio
After the swimmers had returned, we continued our sail to the port
of Korissia. Korissia is a very small village of a few hundred people. The
port was very quiet with not too many ships at the dock. It was about noon.
Marj returned from the grocery store and found Jim and I still sitting waiting
for the bill. Fortunately the waiter showed up soon after and we paid the bill.
We all met back at the ship at 2:30 and marched to the south end of the
harbour to board our bus. We were going to the village of Ioulis, high in
the hills. It is the capital of Kea.
As we walked up one street, we encountered a man on a donkey. The donkey's
body was straddling the path and its head was inside a tavern. The man on the
donkey was very talkative and asked if we were English (meaning, I think, if we
spoke English). Apparently some of our group had passed by earlier and he
had invited them in for a drink. We just said "Hi" and passed by. There were several
small churches along the way. All of the towns seemed to have many small
churches - about one church for every 10 or so houses. I assume that they
are mostly Greek Orthodox churches, so they must have many small, local
congregations. Can't complain that it's too far to go to church! At
4:00 we all met back at the entrance to the town to get back on the bus.
It was a very warm day, so the sir conditioned ride back to the ship was a
nice change.
About 6:00 we finally docked at a container dock in Lavrio. What a change
from all the little marinas we had been in for 2 weeks. We were welcomed by
a pack of "homeless" dogs. Dinner was at 7:00, a bit earlier than normal. This
was because our bus was going to be picking us up at 3:30 AM in order for
us to make our 6:00 AM flight. After dinner we all packed our bags and carried
them up from the bowels of the ship (ie. our cabins) and dumped them in the
lounge / dining area. We went out for a final walk on the dock and watched a
huge crane moving containers around. Then it was time for bed and a couple
of hours sleep.
Day 20 (June 9) - Return to Calgary
Our flights were on time and relatively smooth. Our first leg as about
2.5 hours to Frankfurt. At the Frankfurt airport we picked up an English
newspaper and read about a 6.3 earthquake the previous day near
Epidaurus. We were on Kea when it happened and didn't feel a thing. It
was strong enough that a couple of people were killed. Then we boarded
the long 9 hour flight back to Calgary.We had a couple of meals, played
some cards and watched some TV.
Overall the trip was a fabulous success. We loved Athens and all
of the islands, and it was so nice to travel with such a great bunch of
people. We loved being up on deck as we plowed through the blue
waters (except for one memorable day).
And, of course, we really appreciated the efforts of John and Laura
in making it such a wonderful trip. The only negative (and it's fast fading
from my mind) were the sleeping conditions on the boat which certainly
weren't the greatest. Oh yes, another negative was that the trip
ended far too early! I was ready for a few more islands.
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